Tee leveling

Over the next few months we will start leveling and enlarging some select tees. Over the years the tees have developed a crown or hump in the center of the tee. This happens after decades of divot mix being applied to the tees to fill divots. The new tees are first being striped of sod then leveled. Some of the tees are also being enlarged to accommodate our large triplex tee mowers. These new tee boxes will give the golfer a better stance and more teeing area. Some of the tees that are being leveled or enlarged are as follows. #7 mountain men's and pro, #13 men's and pro, #6 mountain ladies, #5 mountain pro. This tee leveling project is a long term project that we will be tackling over the next few years. We are putting a priority on the worst tees and then addressing the rest of the tees that need work.

First Snow

Today was our first snow at the Pinery. We received about one inch of the white stuff, there isn't much moisture in this snow but it is a taste of what is on the way. On average we receive about 4.1 inches of snow in October. And the average first snow fall is on the 15th of the month. Historically there has been many years that October brings unexpected blizzards dumping numerous feet of snow over the Colorado front range. One of Denver's most famous October snow storms was the "Bronco Blizzard" which occurred on October 15th 1984 during a Monday Night Football game. Once the storm passed it dumped over 22 inches of snow over Denver and the suburbs.

Frosty Mornings

Today was our first hard frost on the golf course. The definition of frost is "The solid deposition of water vapor from saturated air. It is formed when solid surfaces are cooled to below the dew point of the adjacent air." We typically see frost in the Colorado front range from September to May and some times even in June. When we have a frost delay on the course the time delay can be from one to two hours depending on the sun and cloud cover. The reason we have to keep golfers and equipment off the grass is because the grass blade actually freezes. Since grass is mostly water the cells inside the plant freeze and if steeped on or driven on the cells actually break causing footprint or tire tracks that you some times see in the fall. So for all you golfers out their stay off frosty grass. One way to tell if it is ok to walk on the grass is if you drag you hand over the grass and you hand comes up dry the frost is still present, stay off. If you hand comes up wet the frost is melting.

Wildlife Damage

We just recently finished our greens drainage project to find the last two nights we had a visitor. Our local Red Foxes have been digging up our new drainage, causing extensive damage to the area. We just recently put down some natural animal repellents and tonight we are going to try some chain link fence over the area to keep the foxes from digging. The Red Fox is just one many native animals to the area. Every year we have some type of damage to the course from the local wildlife. We have to remember they were here long before the golf course and us.

Smile

Just recently we added a smile drain to the front of #4 lake green. The reason for the drain is to remove the excessive water build up from the lowest part of the green basically the bottom of the bathtub. This type of drain was not part of the old Purr-Wick greens system when they were constructed back in the 70's so it is sometimes difficult to find the original edge of the green. We basically probe the green first to find the sand/soil edge, remove the sod and start digging. Once we find the plastic liner we dig down to the bottom of the liner some times close to two feet. Hopefully along the way we find a old two inch Purr-Wick drain and we can connect those old lines to the new smile drain. The new smile drain will not only help the front of our greens but also the rest since the old two inch drains may be clogged or crushed. With out the a smile drain the green starts to fill up with water raising the water table and creating a wet surface, poor turf and soil conditions, excessive ball marks and even algae. With the new drain in these conditions will gradually begin to disappear creating a even firm putting surface.

The reason it is called a smile drain is because of the way it looks. From above the drain actually resembles a smile. These drains usually follow the lowest elevation contour on the green. With the smile drain in it pulls the water that sits on the lower edge of the green. Typically all new USGA greens are constructed with smile drains. But for many years USGA greens didn't have smile drains so the fronts or lower elevations of USGA greens had similar problems.

Digging out the smile drain

Old Purr-Wick drains

the one to the left is not even connected?

Completed smile drain trench

See how wet the sand and soil are

Smile drain and outlet drain

New Mow Outs

Just recently we started some new mow outs and changed some others. This gives a little different look to the golf course surrounds, and different shot selections for our members. Some of the areas that were rough height at 2 inches were brought down to IR (intermediate rough) at a height 7/16 if a inch. Other areas that were IR height we brought down to tee and approach height .300 of a inch. These areas will be seeded and top dressed to their corresponding grass either bent grass or blue grass. The approach areas will be seeded to bent and the IR areas to Blue grass.

Below is a list of holes where we have added or changed mow outs. These new mow out should add to the golfers experience giving different playability for each area. Now you have a choice to putt, chip, or bump and run. Have fun!

- #1, #4, #6, #9 Lake Course
- #13, #18 Valley course
- #1, #3 Mountain course

Back of #1 lake course

Left of # 4 lake course

Then and Now

A few years ago I came across some old construction pictures of the Pinery that I received from the grow in superintendent Jack Maurer. I thought I would do a then and now comparison of the old photographs taken back in 1971 when the golf course and club house were under construction. Most of the photos are not recognizable because of the lack of land markers but there are a few that I was able to recognize. I will post more Then and Now photos throughout the year.

#1, #9 mountain course

#8 green lake note the Purr-wick liner

#5 green lake

Snow in Summer ?

The first day of fall isn't until tomorrow but this morning we were all surprised with the rapid change in the weather over night and even some snow flurries this afternoon. This morning the temperature was only 36 degrees and falling. The National Weather Service www.crh.noaa.gov/bou/ predicted the high to be 49 degrees today. I don't think we are going to reach that today, not with snow falling at 11 am. The good news about the cooler temperature's and rain is our last fertilizer application went out last week. This natural irrigation it the best to water in all the fertilizer we just applied. On days like today we try to let the crew go home early and make up the hours later this week. But the forecast for the rest of the week doesn't look to promising until Friday. Lets hope for a little better weather over the weekend.

Fall Bulk Fertilizer

This September is the time for our third and last bulk fertilizer application to our fairways, rough, greens and tees. This fall application is probably the most important application of fertilizer of the entire year. Fall fertilizer is so important because it allows the turf plant to recover from all the stresses of the summer, developing more root structure and storing carbohydrates for the long winter. We should only see a little growth from this fertilizer application because in mid to late fall the plant is starting to harden off and storing energy for winter and spring green up. The definition of harden off is "The process of conditioning plants to more stressful environmental conditions". We harden off the plant by reducing the water, reducing top growth, and several applications of potassium sulfate which helps with plant stress.




We typically use a 70% organic fertilizer comprising of feather meal, fish meal, meat & bone meal, blood meal. The fertilizer also has elemental minerals like calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, ammonium sulfate, urea and potassium sulfate. These applications of organic fertilizers are not only beneficial for the golf course but the environment as well. With organic products we are building beneficial soil microbes that reduce thatch and diseases, and with little chance for runoff it also protects our water sources. At the end of the day if we could all use organic or recycled products our world would be a better cleaner place for generations to come.

Anatomy of Aerification

The definition aeration is, “The practice of improving the movement of air, water and nutrients into the soil by making holes or slits into the ground". Specialized machines are commonly used in these practice to remove the plugs or soil. The main reasons for aeration are the reduction of compaction from golfers, carts and maintenance equipment. By reducing compaction you increase the air, water and nutrient movement through the soil creating a healthier environment for root growth. With heather roots you have a healthier turf grass plant. In turn this creates healthy roots, making the plant more drought and heat tolerant, requiring less irrigation and hand watering. All of the cultural practice mentioned above hold true for all turf grass stands, whether on the golf course, fairways, rough our your own home lawn.

This fall we will be aerifing the tees and small rough areas only. Some of the fairways will be spiked with a bayonet tine. This tine does not remove any soil but has similar benefits to aerification.

Punching the tees

Putting down fertilizer and calcium

Applying blue grass seed

Chopping up plugs

Clean up crew

Watering in tee

In conclusion the cultural practice of aerification is an annual event that will benefit the turf grass plant, the golf course, and create overall better playing conditions.

PGR's

PGR's or Plant Growth Regulators are used on many turf areas of the golf course. The primary reason for using PGR's is the obvious, to regulate the vertical growth of the turf. Besides the benefits of having the turf grow slower the PGR's allow the turf grow more horizontally with increased rhizome's and stolons creating a more dense playing surface on greens and fairways. Some of the other benefits of applying PGR's are as follows.

- A more vigorous turf plant

- Suppresses undesirable grasses so a more desirable grass has a

competitive edge

- Turf recovers from stress more quickly

- Reduced seed head production of Poa annua

- Reduced labor costs because of less mowing

- Faster and smother greens

- Reduced usage of water and fertilizer

- Tighter and denser fairways

- Increased root depth (this can be debated)

The overall decision on applying PGR's is a difficult decision weighing the cost of the product verses the amount of labor saved from mowing less frequently.

July?

Is it really July? Over the last few days you would think it was May with temperatures only reaching into upper 60's and rainy. This July is definitely one for the books. We have had high temperatures in the 90's and so called high temperatures in the upper 60's with some lows dipping in to the high 40's. We have also had some extreme thunder storms, hail, wind and tornado sightings. July is typically our hottest month of the entire year. I guess our current weather pattern is holding, cool and rainy for now but we will see what August brings. If this weather pattern continues this July could go down a one of the coolest July's in Denver History. How about that July 2008 was the 3rd hottest and 3rd driest July in Denver History.


Here are some averages and records for Denver for July.

- Average High 88

- Average Low 59

- Average rain fall 2.2 inches

- Record rain fall 6.4 inches

- Rain fall July 2009 3.52 inches

- Driest July .01 inches

- Record High 104 in 1931

- Record Low 36 in 1939

Localized Dry Spot

Localized dry spot or (LDS) are found on all types of turf grasses and soil conditions all over the world. These LDS areas are characterized by non-wettable or hydrophobic soil conditions. These areas usually have excessive organic mater and a waxy fungus in the soil medium called mycelium. Controlling localized dry spots is an ongoing and some times difficult battle, especially if you let the areas severely dry out. If localized dry spot is present it is best to spike or Hydro Jet the areas, apply a wetting agent and immediately water in . The wetting agent helps breaks up the waxy build up and allows the soil to take the water. Other practices to minimize the severity of localized dry spots include thatch removal, application of a fungicide or core aerification.

Localized dry spot on a green

Hand watering with wetting agents

The Hydro Jet injects water and wetting agent at

high pressure into the soil up to 10 inches deep.

Picture of hydrophobic soil

(you can see the waxy buildup)

Picture of non-hydrophobic soil

Drainage, Drainage, Drainage

What are the three most important things for a golf course turf and soil? Drainage, Drainage, Drainage. Recently we discovered a greens drainage problem on the front left of #17 green. The old Purr-Wick drain was crushed during installation of the new irrigation system. This damage of the pipe backed up water in to the green causing it not to drain properly. This type of drainage problem creates anaerobic conditions in the soil making it very difficult to grow grass. The definition of anaerobic soil is, soil that is devoid of interstitial oxygen. This condition mostly occurs because of the sustained presence of water, which limits contact with the atmosphere. Once the drainage is fixed, the drainage of water through the green will pull in much needed oxygen making the area firm again and returning the area to an aerobic soil.

Front left of #17 green

Old Purr-Wick drain

Entire drain project

Tournament Preparation

The Pinery Preferential is just around the corner and I bet a lot of members are wondering what we do to prepare. The main thing we do different is we starting rolling greens. We usually start rolling greens the Monday before the first round and roll greens through that Saturday. When rolling greens I found it best to roll at least three days prior to a tournament to see the best results. Usually the first day or so you only see a slight increase in greens speeds, it is after the third and fourth days you see a significant difference in the green speeds. Typically we can see the greens increase up to one to two feet on the stimp meter this is all dependent on the weather and any irrigation events. Secondly we increase our mowing frequency on certain areas of the course which include fairways, approaches, tees and intermediate rough. Normally these areas only see a mower three to four times a week. When you increase the mowing frequency we get a much better cut and it keeps the course tight. The down side is the labor hours we spend mowing, but it is only for a short time and the results are worth it.

Greens Roller

Greens roller heads up close

Prism to check quality of cut

Fairway mower in action